The world of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one approximately see what each of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit choosing it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very economical price. Handling is nice as well when you get used to the kit setup, plus it accepts a very great deal of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for people who like to tinker, and this car should grow along with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts at the base for the front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting things like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find quite a few left empty. They are often helpful to control chassis flex, but not with all the stock top deck; an optional you have to be purchased. The design is similar to an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. All things are readily available and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Besides a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll even though the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars may be the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as close to the edges from the chassis as you can. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I needed a great servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit utilizing a number of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, nevertheless i do remember a method I used quite some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the outside with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the ultimate result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to complete a picture shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is fairly amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from your parts. Including the CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look just a little funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the correct direction. This really is, to some extent, thanks to the awesome handling from the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to modify the angle in the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit as well as the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, along with the Novak system is ideal for just that. I did must be a bit creative with all the install in the system as a result of small space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it can require a little getting used to knowing that an auto losing grip and sliding is the correct way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at below two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, and the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you feel just like you need more of something anything there’s lots of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the car with all the kit setup and it was just a point of battery power pack or two before I used to be swinging the rear around the hairpins, around the carousel and back and forth with the chicane. I never had an opportunity to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s little you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I did so, however, come with an trouble with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept along with it, attempting to overcome the matter with driving, but soon were required to RPM Team losi parts it straight into actually look it over. Through the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.